Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Familia Malakela Try Speghetti

July 27, 2008

It's official- I have the best host family ever. Today was great! This morning I cleaned my room and did a ton of laundry. Then my mama got dressed up and told me we were going to town and two of my favorite people, my sister, Bahati, who holds my hand everywhere I go, and my neighbor, Anna, came with us. I should probably talk a bit more about both of them. Bahati is my best friend since I joined the PC. She is a precocious eight year old, with big brown eyes and a smile that would melt your heart. She has taught me more Kiswahili than any other person and always puts me in my place when I pronounce things incorrectly. She sings, dances and talks to me nonstop. She is very affectionate. My neighbor, Anna, is 20. She ate with us the first night I has here and I thought she was my sister. The first night was so hard on me when my family didn't speak any english. Anna showed up like an angel, she is one of the most beautiful women I have ever seen and is pretty good at her english. Her life is so different than mine- however, I have formed a great friendship with her.

Anyways, the four of us went to the tailor, who was none other than, Baba Michael. He promptly measured me for an African dress that will be made out of the fabric my baba had given me. A custom made dress for less than $6- unreal. I am so excited to have it on Jumatano (Wednesday). Next, the four of us headed to the salon for my mama to have her hair styled. All of the women there had to touch and talk about my hair. I played with Bahati, while my mama's hair was washed and braided. I wanted to stop here and talk a bit about collectivist cultures- they are so different than ours. At the salon a woman came in to have her hair done but the hairdresser was already busy on my mama. So Anna got up and washed this woman's hair. I tried to picture someone being this generous in America- just seeing that someone needed help and helping without pay or anything in return and it was hard for me to imagine.

We walked home and then as planned my family wanted me to cook them "dinner Marekani"- this is very difficult to do in a country that doesn't really have American food. All I could picture was McDonalds. . . But I decided to make Speghetti, because noodles are available although very expensive. I was very nervous they would not like it as Tanzanians are sort of stuck in their ways with food. I have never cooked for 15 people alone before. I made the sauce from scratch and cooked it all over our charcoal stove. As I cooked Bahati and Rasheedy were jumping up and down with excitement and chanting "Brie, Anapika! Anapika, Brie!" (Brie is Cooking) You would have thought it was Christmas. I got out the pepper in the grinder from Trader Joes that my mama marekani got me and added it to the sauce. There was a lot of excited talking among all of the mamas watching at that point. They all wanted to inspect this grinder. And this is why I love my family: All fourteen of these Tanzanians sat down with huge helpings and told me it was the best food they had ever eaten. They ohhhed and ahhhed over every bite. All of my two year old brothers covered themselves with sauce and best of all my baba took thirds. There was even enough to bring some to my neighbors- It was a big village pasta feed! I love them so much and am fearful of this new transition where I have to leave another family.

Wandering Stars

Sneaking a beer with my PC girls when we were supposed to be in class- Opps.
Ashleigh and I:

Kate and Teri:

July 25, 2008

The stars here look different than they do in the states- they are somehow closer and brighter. The African night sky is beautiful. I have had a stabbing ache in my head that I am hoping stops soon. Today I wanted to go home. Sometimes, I forget that I live here. I forget that I would need to get on a plane to have a Starbucks Carmel Frappacino. (The food cravings have become bad and we perpetuate them by reminiscing about what American food tastes like- It is no wonder so many Americans are obese.) It seems unreal that Obama is still running for president, that celebrities are still filming movies, that people are still driving SUVs, taking hot showers and playing video games- when here I am. I thin k I have fallen into an alternate reality- I am off the map. But I still have the stars- they are brighter than before.

Beatings, Dishes and a Proposal?

So I am behind again in my blog, but I have been keeping track in my journal. So It will take me awhile to update fully.

July 24, 2008

Tonight is ideal- I have charged my ipod at the internet cafe and now I have music for the first time in weeks, I am journaling and eating a chocolate bar- I know! It is the best thing I have ever eaten. Our Training manager, John, brought it back from Dar for us because we have had a rough week here in TZ. First of all, our PC country directer was fired- no real news why, but now PCTZ has no country director. Next we had to send three people to Dar for medical reasons- two were dental and one girl dislocated her knee. A few people were super sick with food poisoning. Then more serious things happened. A few girls witnesses a baby baboon being killed by children. These girls were so upset that they almost went home. The cruelty to animals here is amazing and incredibly difficult for us Americans. This was obviously really hard for us. Also, my friend Kim's host brother died this week. He was 26 and had been sick. She was very emotional in telling us and we all really felt sad. Many things were a big cultural wake up call for us Americans. After the high of Mikumi, this was rough. I am fine though.

I did alright on my tests and have been enjoying my host family. I had a brief scare when they took Bahati to the hospital, they told me she was sick, but she seems to be alright now. I wish you could all be a fly on the wall at one of our family dinners. They are so funny. Imagine having two years olds with no high chairs or bibs. Iddy is all over the place grabbing everything and mixing food and drinks like a mad scientist. My mama and baba speak so animatedly- so rapidly. Tanzanians make all sorts of verbal noises that aren't really words. It is nice because even when you don't have much language you know how they are feeling. The other night we had a lively conversation about beating children. My baba wanted to know if parents and teachers beat their children. I told him they weren't supposed to and tried to explain the concept of sending them to their room, which seemed to be lost on them. I am thankful my baba doesn't spank my siblings.

On a slight side note, as a child we would go camping every summer with my parents college friends' families. Our friend, Jim Shaw, would be made fun of by everyone for being very meticulous in the way he would wash the dishes while camping- he basically sterilized each one. I think about Jim every time we do dishes here and I am surprised I am still alive. It is amazing how much our bodies can take. Get this- we use dirty cold water out of a hole in the ground and reuse it on all of our dishes. We scrub our dishes out with our hands- which aren't particularly clean. When things are really stuck on we use grainy dirt from our yard to scrub with, I am serious: we clean with dirt.

A boy came over today who was a friend of Mwanne's. He spoke really good english and wanted to know if I knew any rappers or George W. Bush, he was slightly disappointed that I didn't. He wanted to know if I was amazed at how poor they are in TZ, I was unsure of what to say. He asked me to marry him so he could come to America and be rich. Oh, I forgot to mention that this boy is fourteen. The thought Reed's reaction when I come home married to a random Tanzanian fourteen year old was just priceless.

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Mikumi National Park!

Not a great picture: But Hippos Me in front of the croc pool- Yipes!


Catherine and I making our "Safari Faces". A Note about Catherine: She is so much like my sister, Shannon, from looks, major, age, interests, etc. it is uncanny- she is awesome.

Zebra Love




My Ele-friend




Mikumi




July 20th, 2008
My First Safari! Yesterday, I woke up early to pack to take the bus to Mikumi National Park with the rest of the PCTs. We rode three hours along rough roads to the Genesis Motel in Mikumi. I was super excited to stay here as it would be my first shower in over a month (Cold water only, though) and they have electricity! We ate lunch and boarded the vehicles to head into the park. Before even entering, we saw a group of warthogs in the road. They were so funny running on their stubby little legs. The park is beautiful- savanna grasslands. There are hills in the distance framing the park. Shortly after entering, we saw a heard of impala and buffalo- it was amazing to see how fast the impala can run and jump. Not far away was the unmistakable silhouette of a giraffe. I have never thought much about giraffes before, but they are the most beautiful animals I have ever seen in life. Nothing is more breathtaking than a few giraffes moving across the savanna at sunset. We saw the elephants next- a big herd with babies. They were so content and I am thankful we still live in a world where a few of these gentle giants still roam free. Seeing them reminded me of all the pain we have caused these wonderful creatures. These elephants were so noble and wise seeming, I am embarrassed that the human race is taking so long in realizing the value of preserving our wildlife. Next we went to "The Hippo Pool"- they all pulled there heads out of the water when we arrived. There were about 12 of them and I was reminded of "Fantasia" when I saw the crocs in the pool and picturing them dancing together in tutus put a smile on my face. We watched the sunset over the beautiful hills and then headed back to the hotel.

We had a wonderful dinner of Tanzanian food and then had a toga party! This involved wrapping our Kangas ( colorful TZ fabric) around ourselves and dancing the night away. At 5 am we ate breakfast and were on the safari circuit by 6.30. When we got to the park the zebras were very active and playful, the wildebeest were on the move which made me very excited for their great migration later this year. The new addition to our animal list was a colony of baboons. They had babies on their backs are were up to mischief. I was very happy, but anyone who knows me knows I love cats best. And a big cat sighting in the wild would make my life. Unfortunately it was not to be realized on this trip. The giraffes and elephants were the high point and I will remember the way they looked at us for the rest of my life. I am so thankful to have been able to appreciate the diversity of our world.

Friday, July 18, 2008

Chalk Drawings

Iddy, runny nose and all
Mama Simba and Simba (who is afraid of the camera!) Bahati, Iddy and Rasheedy (Unfortunately too dark of a picture)
Mwanne


Sidewalk Chalk Fun- Left to Right- Iddy, Simba, Michael



Michael Age 2

Bahati, My Besti & Host Sis, Age 8 Rasheedy- He is so cute!!!
Bahati- Hamming it up for the Camera.


First of all a shout out to some people who I have not emailed:
-My Cousin, Janet, for commenting regularly on my blog- I love love you and your support.
-My partner in crime at Mercy Corps, Mariel, for all the emails- and yes, I do want the care package, send away!
-My little brothers, David and Jeremy! Happy Ninth Birthdays on July 29th!!! Love you Boys!!
-My little Cuzzies, Nicole and Sophie, Happy Ninth and Eleventh Birthdays!!!

July 17, 2008
Living in another country is humbling. Being part of the Peace Corps is a constant lesson that Americans do not know everything. Being corrected by in language by my two year old brother is sort of funny and has made me realize that Americans take themselves all too seriously. We are too afraid to be the butt of the jokes, here we let ourselves be, we have to be. I now sing and dance to get a rise out of my sibilings. We play a game called "Mosquito", which is now their one english word. It consists of me running around yelling "Mosquito" and attacking them with one finger. Now they do it to each other and me.

I should note that there are some changes in my family. Mama Simba is not actually my Baba's other wife, like I had previously thought. Family relations here are difficult to tell since they call everyone family and physical affection between genders is rare. Anyways, it has become clear to me that they are not married, even though he treats Simba like a son. We also have another Mama who moved in with us a little over a week ago. She was introduced to me as Mama Michael. Michael is an adorable, happy two year old who fits right in with the Iddy/Simba two year old gang. They live in the back room with Baba Michael who showed up a few days after they did. I love them- they listen patiently to any simple Kiswahili sentence I might say and react like I have just spoken the words of Shakespeare and am the most clever girl alive. They are very calming people.

So Last weekend was amazing. On Sunday, I went hiking up behind my house with my 20 year old neighbor, Anna. She is gorgeous and speaks a bit of English which is fun. She is engaged to a man living in the Tanga region and is one of the few girls I know who is over 15 and still in school. Her goal is to be a secratary living in Dar. After the hike I learned to cook every Tanzanian dish under the sun with my Mama, Mama Simba, Mama Michael and about a dozen other neighborhood mamas- all attempting to teach me to be a proper Tanzanian woman. We made on our little charcoal fire- Maharage (Beans) mchicha (Cooked spinach) Wali ya Nazi (Coconut Rice) Chapati (Flat Bread) Sambusa ya Viazi (potato samosas) and Ugali. Let's just say I have a strong dislike for Ugali a play dough like substance that consists of cooked flour and water. I also did laundry and mopped my floor- exhausting day! The fun part came when I got out the box of colored sidewalk chalk that my brothers in America gave me to give my host sibilings. The two year old gand and I had a blast drawing in the courtyard, pretty soon all my sibiling and children from all over the neighborhood were out there drawing in the yard!!! It was awesome. It was fun to see these hard working kids be goofy.

This week was hard. I had three tests: a tech test on HIV/AIDS and Life Skills knowledge, one that was written Kiswahili and one that was an Oral Profinciencty exam- involving chatting in Kiswahili. I think they went okay. Overall, life here is pretty good.

Friday, July 11, 2008

One Month in Africa

So I have lived in Africa for a month now. I have done many things that are very minor in the scheme of things, but I am told it is important to celebrate even the most minor milestones:
1) I have spent an entire night awake by lantern light alone with a scorpion.
2) I have chased about 20 chickens out of my Kiswahili classroom
3) I have greeted and chatted with people in their native language
4) I have met the first person I know of who is living with AIDS. I shook his hand and told him in Kiswahili that I was glad of the awareness that he is helping to spread to his Tanzanian community.
5) I have hauled water to bathe with, cook with, drink with, etc.
6) I have done laundry... a lot of it, by hand.
7) I have the dirtiest feet and the longest leg hair I have ever seen on myself, (Yes this is an accomplishment).
8) Most nights, when the scorpion is not there, I live with 3 lizards and 2-6 cockroaches.
9) I have worn Tanzanian clothes and held Tanzanian children.
10) I still do not have mango flies, worms, cholera, malaria, amoebas, rashes, TB, or any other disease or parasite... That I know of...
11) I can understand some of and take part in Kiswahili conversations.
12) I have ridden in a landrover over crazy rough Tanzanian roads.
13) I have made over 45 new American friends and at least the many new Tanzanian ones.
14) The kids in my village have mostly stopped yelling "Mzungu" and now yell "Brie, Nipe Tano" ("Give me five")
15) I am still here
16) I live like an African... (Sort of.) I live with 12 Tanzanians, (This number sometimes fluctuates), and everyday there seems to be more similarities and less differences.
The biggest accomplishment was making it through my first night...
Dining under the stars with my family and a dozen neighbors, knowing no language, knowing no one. Sitting on the ground under the stars, eating rice out of the communal dish with my hands. Laughing and thinking here I am... These are my new friends, this is my new home.

Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Gender Relations

So I think I should go into what I have been learning about gender relations and health. The life expectancy in Tanzania is 51 years old. Over 10 percent of children die before the age of 5 and the AIDS rate nationwide is 7% and much more prevalent in women. This brings me to gender issues. I was warned that this would be the hardest part of my service- watching how women and children are treated while not being able to intervene. Men here often have more than one wife, and women are expected to do the majority of the work around the home. Children, we are told, are basically slaves, and the father is the ruler in the home. Girls are not prioritized or valued. Most young women do not attend school past the age of 14. We are told that by the age of 14 most of these girls are sexually active with the majority of there first sexual experience being rape or extreme pressure. For example, it is not uncommon here for an older man to pay for a young girl's school fees in exchange for sex, many times this is with the child's own teacher. The thought of all this is sickening to me. The Peace Corps has explained that part of my job her is to teach life skills and increase the self-esteem of these young women.
Upon hearing all of this, I have been closely observing my host family. I am very impressed with there relationships and I would like to describe them a bit more to you. My Baba, I have discovered used to be in the military. I thought he was married to Mama Simba, but in fact she is of no relation and she and her son just live with us. Recently another Mama has moved in Mama Michael. She also has two very young children and no husband around. I do not have enough language to ask where these Babas are. My baba so far is so different from this image of a Tanzanian man. He shows great interest in the children and even calls them in to play in front of him for entertainment. He talks with them over dinner and laughs when they are silly. As for who wears the pants in the family, I would say it is my Mama, he might have the final say so, but behind that man is a great woman. He would be silly to not see what a good thing he has with her. Sh is from a tribe in the South, so she looks slightly different than most people in Kilosa. She is beautiful, she is young, she has given him two sons and two daughters all of them are adorable and as charming as she is. Yesterday , when I got home from school she was in the courtyard making Sambusas with my sisters. There was about a dozen neighbor children gathered around watching her. She had her battery operated radio and was singing dancing and laughing. I know they came to be with her. She has a great sense of humor and is always welcoming and happy. She listens when my Baba talks, but even without understanding them, I can tell he is totally in love with her. So I wonder about this gender disparity. I worry about my eight year old sister, Bahati, what will her life be like? I wonder about my ten year old brother, Rasheedy, how when he is so cute and innocent and loves his sisters, I do not see him being a chauvinistic man. Then I think of all the Tanzanian men I have ever met and wonder about them, they all seem like wonderful caring people. I hope that there is a change on the horizon and women become educated equals.