Okay, my mom is telling me that people are calling her asking her to tell me to update my blog. So alright already....
I have been in Iringa now for almost two weeks. Iringa is about 5 hours north of Njombe by bus but is still in the Southern Highlands. It is a larger town then Njombe but you can still walk everywhere. I love Iringa, there is great shopping, good nightlife and friendly people. So about 30 PCVs are here from my group for In-Service Training and PEPFAR. PEPFAR, if you don't know is a program started by Bush that is helping 15 countries in the world by giving grants for AIDS projects. It is one of the options for PCVs to write PEPFAR grants to get money for our projects. So we are in trainings everyday all day with our Tanzanian counterparts, so Juster is here with me. She has sort of stolen the show by translating everything in two languages and she gave this great speech out of nowhere about empowering women in our villages.
Basically I am spending my time trying to figure out what I should do in my village. My needs assessment yielded that my village could use help with everything. We, PCVs, have spent our time discussing ideas for projects, how to get funding, cultural weirdness that we don't know what to do about, and leaning on each other as we always do when we are together. Family is such an important concept and the more we miss our own in America the more we love and know each other. Last night we watched together as history was made and change happened. Watching Obama become president in a local Tanzanian bar with PCVs was an experience I will never forget. Tanzanians and PCVs alike were hopeful. But it was moments like these that I was thankful for my American PCV family.
So on to projects... These are some projects that PCVs are working on in Tanzania: Building wells/water supply issues, making fuel-efficient stoves, solar power, community libraries, building dispensaries, Agro-forestry/fruit trees, improved farm techniques, composting/fertilizing, income generating crafts, windmills, livestock- chickens, goats, cows, etc, beekeeping, micro-finance, food preservation, school gardens, sports for village or students, vocational programs for out of school youth, health clubs (as in clubs at school that talk about health... not 24 hour fitness... c'mon.), teaching English, girls empowerment, AIDS testing and education, nutrition education for people living with AIDS and mothers, and permaculture. So what will I do....? Sijui (I don't know).
But here are the ideas now: Still teach health/life skills at P. school. Still have girls empowerment group with Tally. Still have mama's group teaching nutrition, etc. Still have men's group teaching condom use and women's rights... oh, I am still nervous about that one. Still have a village AIDS day that will be like a party but will culminate with making my entire village get tested. But new ideas: I am technically a health volunteer, however, instead of preaching to people to wear condoms I would like to access their interest in healthful living in other ways. I think the answer is through income generation and nutrition. I want to put more of an environmental spin on things. Mostly I am interested in grafting and having people grow fruit trees-- benefit: if they eat it- more variety to their diets and increase nutrition. If they sell it- more money to go to the doctor, send kids to school to learn about condoms, etc. Also interested in beekeeping, which could provide good money. The problem: I don't know how to do any of these things. My parents have always been outdoorsy and able to do anything on their property. My mom is a master gardener, they have bees and an orchard. Unfortunately, I did not realize that my parents were the coolest people ever until I was about 17 and by that point I guess I missed out on the training I should have gotten from them. But the job of a PCV is only facilitation to keep things sustainable, so my plan is just to bring an expert in from Njombe and teach my interested villagers. Ah, so many plans, so much work. I guess I will have to stop reading 3-4 books a week. Honestly, I am a bit nervous to go back to village. Returning after IST is a difficult time for most PCVs after spending two weeks together and then going back and having to make stuff happen.
Now for the fun stuff: We have had some great nights in Iringa. We have been to the disco, out to the local hole-in-the-wall bars, watched "Friends" in bed on Kate's laptop... basically our nights have been a blast. We have started dance parties in one of those seedy tin roof bars. Picture 12 American girls dancing to Tanzanian pop music in one of those places.. it was hilarious. Especially when we got some old drunk Indian man to dance with us. It is really funny to live in a country where anything goes. When your group is all white girls it makes it so we are stared at anyways, so we go with it. We dance and sing everywhere, we meet crazy/interesting/fun people from all over, we wear clothes don't match that we all just rotate between ourselves and then tell each other how pretty we look, and we revel in our weirdness and spontaneity. Sometimes, our lives are hard: we have relationship problems, village problems, homesick or health problems. And then sometimes we just live in the moment and forget all our worries and remember that girls really do just want to have fun.
Wednesday, January 21, 2009
Friday, January 9, 2009
Sickness
"The wind is in from Africa and last night I couldn't sleep.
Oh, you know, it sure is hard to leave you, Carey,
But it's really not my home.
My fingernails are filthy, I've got beach tar on my feet,
And I miss my clean white linens and my fancy French cologne."
-Joni Mitchell
January 6, 2009
I woke up sometime in the middle of the night and thought I had been hit by a truck. My whole body hurt including my head which was pounding. I was tangled in my mosquito net and thought I had wet the bed before I realized it was just sweat. In the morning, I crawled to the living room to take my temperature- 102 F. Where did this come from?
I crawled back to bed where I spent the entirety of Tuesday. PCVs had always told me that the worst is to be at site and be sick. This is because you are basically alone and the daily tasks like cooking, and bathing are next to impossible. I always miss my mom, but when I am sick it is time to revert to being a child. I pictured myself little at the house I grew up in. Curled up on the flowered couch in my flannel pajamas and under a blanket. My mom would come in with what she called "Tincture" a concoction of herbs, honey and tea. Both my sisters would be hanging out on the leather couch and blue chair watching whatever movie we had going. Smokey, our little grey, cat is curled on my stomach. There are no boys... after all there was a time when our house was quiet before I had brothers... haha. But soon my Dad comes home from work and kisses me on the forehead and asks if I am better. But there is none of this so I lay looking up at my mosquito net and crawl to take my temperature again. (Standing up makes me feel like I am going to vomit.) Now it is only 98.2 F and I am freezing.
I put on every piece of clothing I own and get under all my blankets. Even my towel for good measure. I want tea but that is work to heat water. I shiver for a few hours and then sleep and wake up all sweaty again. Temperature: 103.8 F Whoa! I get out this super handy (and somewhat terrifying) book, "Where There is No Doctor." Which confirms what I already know, a fever that rises and falls dramatically with a headache is either a virus or Malaria. At any rate we are supposed to contact PC if we have a temp that high. They tell me to monitor it because Malaria is weird and can go into hiding where some days you feel fine, but a fever that comes and goes for a week or more should be treated like Malaria.
Well I am sitting there sweating, Juster and Katherine come by because they have been working on the farms but realize they and no other villagers have seen me that day. I must look pretty bad because as soon as Juster sees me she pushes Katherine back like I have the plague. This is a good idea though, as she is only a child and if what I have is contagious, it would be bad for her. Juster tells her to get Rosina and Imelda (the girls who we are supporting in school,) to start boiling water. She tells me to bathe when they bring the water and she will bring dinner for me and my cat who have not eaten all day. Then, reassuringly (She thinks), she tells me she will not let me die. Oh good.
She comes back later with the head teacher and half of the primary school teachers. They have tea and rice and beans. I am not hungry at all but am grateful for the tea. When eat a good amount but tell them I am full they all yell at me "Kula, Brie!" "Brie, Kula!" (Eat!) Then they beg me to eat just one handful more and I feel like a little child who is being naughty at dinnertime. Finally, when I refuse, Juster tells me in English that I will die if I do not eat that day. Haha... clearly she does not understand American fat reserves, I think I could go two weeks without eating and not have a problem. Then she says that if I die they are going to bury me at the school and write "Here is our Mzungu, Brie." (Gee, Thanks.) They insist someone should spend the night there to care for me, but I insist just as strongly that I only need to rest and I will come out in the morning so they know I am okay.
The next morning at the oh so late hour of 6 am there is Hodi-ing at my door. I wrap myself in a blanket and answer the door to 5 villagers who are checking to see if I died in the night. Luckily, I feel surprisingly better although, not in the clear yet. Days later, still drained but no fever, so I am assuming just something working through my system. Every sickness here is caused by feces to mouth (mmm...) or mosquitoes, so it is not like there is some big mystery... just dirty living. But all this talk about death, which I never once felt near to, made me realize how quickly and unexpectedly people go here. How familiar my villagers are with it. I have never been to a funeral in America, I have lost count with how many I have been to here. For Tanzanians, death is real.
Oh, you know, it sure is hard to leave you, Carey,
But it's really not my home.
My fingernails are filthy, I've got beach tar on my feet,
And I miss my clean white linens and my fancy French cologne."
-Joni Mitchell
January 6, 2009
I woke up sometime in the middle of the night and thought I had been hit by a truck. My whole body hurt including my head which was pounding. I was tangled in my mosquito net and thought I had wet the bed before I realized it was just sweat. In the morning, I crawled to the living room to take my temperature- 102 F. Where did this come from?
I crawled back to bed where I spent the entirety of Tuesday. PCVs had always told me that the worst is to be at site and be sick. This is because you are basically alone and the daily tasks like cooking, and bathing are next to impossible. I always miss my mom, but when I am sick it is time to revert to being a child. I pictured myself little at the house I grew up in. Curled up on the flowered couch in my flannel pajamas and under a blanket. My mom would come in with what she called "Tincture" a concoction of herbs, honey and tea. Both my sisters would be hanging out on the leather couch and blue chair watching whatever movie we had going. Smokey, our little grey, cat is curled on my stomach. There are no boys... after all there was a time when our house was quiet before I had brothers... haha. But soon my Dad comes home from work and kisses me on the forehead and asks if I am better. But there is none of this so I lay looking up at my mosquito net and crawl to take my temperature again. (Standing up makes me feel like I am going to vomit.) Now it is only 98.2 F and I am freezing.
I put on every piece of clothing I own and get under all my blankets. Even my towel for good measure. I want tea but that is work to heat water. I shiver for a few hours and then sleep and wake up all sweaty again. Temperature: 103.8 F Whoa! I get out this super handy (and somewhat terrifying) book, "Where There is No Doctor." Which confirms what I already know, a fever that rises and falls dramatically with a headache is either a virus or Malaria. At any rate we are supposed to contact PC if we have a temp that high. They tell me to monitor it because Malaria is weird and can go into hiding where some days you feel fine, but a fever that comes and goes for a week or more should be treated like Malaria.
Well I am sitting there sweating, Juster and Katherine come by because they have been working on the farms but realize they and no other villagers have seen me that day. I must look pretty bad because as soon as Juster sees me she pushes Katherine back like I have the plague. This is a good idea though, as she is only a child and if what I have is contagious, it would be bad for her. Juster tells her to get Rosina and Imelda (the girls who we are supporting in school,) to start boiling water. She tells me to bathe when they bring the water and she will bring dinner for me and my cat who have not eaten all day. Then, reassuringly (She thinks), she tells me she will not let me die. Oh good.
She comes back later with the head teacher and half of the primary school teachers. They have tea and rice and beans. I am not hungry at all but am grateful for the tea. When eat a good amount but tell them I am full they all yell at me "Kula, Brie!" "Brie, Kula!" (Eat!) Then they beg me to eat just one handful more and I feel like a little child who is being naughty at dinnertime. Finally, when I refuse, Juster tells me in English that I will die if I do not eat that day. Haha... clearly she does not understand American fat reserves, I think I could go two weeks without eating and not have a problem. Then she says that if I die they are going to bury me at the school and write "Here is our Mzungu, Brie." (Gee, Thanks.) They insist someone should spend the night there to care for me, but I insist just as strongly that I only need to rest and I will come out in the morning so they know I am okay.
The next morning at the oh so late hour of 6 am there is Hodi-ing at my door. I wrap myself in a blanket and answer the door to 5 villagers who are checking to see if I died in the night. Luckily, I feel surprisingly better although, not in the clear yet. Days later, still drained but no fever, so I am assuming just something working through my system. Every sickness here is caused by feces to mouth (mmm...) or mosquitoes, so it is not like there is some big mystery... just dirty living. But all this talk about death, which I never once felt near to, made me realize how quickly and unexpectedly people go here. How familiar my villagers are with it. I have never been to a funeral in America, I have lost count with how many I have been to here. For Tanzanians, death is real.
Monday, January 5, 2009
Holidays in East Africa
So... I haven't updated in a while as I have spent my time lately speaking English, riding buses, eating American food, and living in luxury- and you all already know what that is like. So I have decided to just give a highlighted version of my holidays.
Highlights:
- Fabulous Christmas dinner in Njombe- Greta made amazing onion dill bread and I made a mango pie. PCVs try to make the holidays feel like home, but they don't really.
-Being able to talk to my parents, sisters, brothers and Reed on Christmas.
- Getting our picture taken with an African Father Christmas.
-Seeing my friends from my training group that I haven't seen in four months.
-Watching "The Grinch Stole Christmas" and "Charlie Brown's Christmas" in bed on Christmas eve with Catherine, Ashleigh and Cristina. (Made me miss my family though... My Dad wasn't there to sing "He's a mean one, Mr. Grinch.")
-The Fabulous Travel Adventures of Margaret, Greta, Kate and Brie. We hitched rides all over the place: in the back of a Pepsi truck, with a Swedish expat, on a crowded dala where I had to sit in Margaret's lap while we both straddled a Masai man...
-Staying in an amazing house owned my the U.S. Government in Dar. Yay for air conditioning, kitchen appliances, and showers. Thank you Patrick and Megan!!!
-Watching Meesh have a dance off on the beach with some really good Tanzanian guys.
-Wearing a bathing suit and Barak Obama kanga everyday like a uniform.
-Sipping a pina colada on the beach.
-Night swimming in the Indian Ocean.
-New Year's Eve Disco Dancing with about 40 PCVs.
-Riding a camel down the beach on New Year's Day.
-Megan's incredible pasta dinner. The homemade salad dressing was delicious.
-Every moment I was in Dar and realizing that I was not getting robbed.
-Weekend at Flower Farm with Zummi and Adina... I think I can write "Enough Said..."
-Eating, eating, eating....
-Phone calls from my villagers saying they loved and and missed me.
Overall, the holidays were fun and enjoyable. I tried to focus on where I was and not where I wasn't. Now it is back to the village for just a few days before my big two week long in-service Training by Peace Corps. Juster and I are headed to Iringa to learn about what I should be doing here for the next year and a half.
Highlights:
- Fabulous Christmas dinner in Njombe- Greta made amazing onion dill bread and I made a mango pie. PCVs try to make the holidays feel like home, but they don't really.
-Being able to talk to my parents, sisters, brothers and Reed on Christmas.
- Getting our picture taken with an African Father Christmas.
-Seeing my friends from my training group that I haven't seen in four months.
-Watching "The Grinch Stole Christmas" and "Charlie Brown's Christmas" in bed on Christmas eve with Catherine, Ashleigh and Cristina. (Made me miss my family though... My Dad wasn't there to sing "He's a mean one, Mr. Grinch.")
-The Fabulous Travel Adventures of Margaret, Greta, Kate and Brie. We hitched rides all over the place: in the back of a Pepsi truck, with a Swedish expat, on a crowded dala where I had to sit in Margaret's lap while we both straddled a Masai man...
-Staying in an amazing house owned my the U.S. Government in Dar. Yay for air conditioning, kitchen appliances, and showers. Thank you Patrick and Megan!!!
-Watching Meesh have a dance off on the beach with some really good Tanzanian guys.
-Wearing a bathing suit and Barak Obama kanga everyday like a uniform.
-Sipping a pina colada on the beach.
-Night swimming in the Indian Ocean.
-New Year's Eve Disco Dancing with about 40 PCVs.
-Riding a camel down the beach on New Year's Day.
-Megan's incredible pasta dinner. The homemade salad dressing was delicious.
-Every moment I was in Dar and realizing that I was not getting robbed.
-Weekend at Flower Farm with Zummi and Adina... I think I can write "Enough Said..."
-Eating, eating, eating....
-Phone calls from my villagers saying they loved and and missed me.
Overall, the holidays were fun and enjoyable. I tried to focus on where I was and not where I wasn't. Now it is back to the village for just a few days before my big two week long in-service Training by Peace Corps. Juster and I are headed to Iringa to learn about what I should be doing here for the next year and a half.
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