Clubbing at the Kilabu

February 22, 2009

Well today I did something interesting- I walked out my front door. Usually things start happening from there. There was loud music playing almost directly out my door- so I went to investigate. I have found that my villagers do not directly invite me to things. It is like they think I wouldn't want to come, but when I go they are so pleased. So I discover that there is a big dance party in the road in front of my house. All my villager Mama friends are there dancing away. I ask what is going on and I don't really get a straight answer- just some kind of party I guess. Fraida, a mama friend of mine, is there and we walk around and visit with people for a bit. I love Sundays in the village. I usually like to go to town because there are so many PCVs there of weekends, but you miss a lot in the village when you miss village Sundays. They are the party days because it is a day of rest from farming. I have decided to try to spend more weekends connecting with my community.

So walking around we run into everybody and eventually Mjemah's house girl who has Anna on her back. (Remember Anna? My own Tanzanian doll?) She is immediately transferred to my arms and then later strapped to my back. Just when I figure I am about done visiting we run into the male teachers and Maria (the female teacher who is the most party-girl type). They tell me C'mon, it is time for us to take you to a kilabu. I have wanted to see kilabu life in action for a little while now, so I go. First of all, kilabu is usually translated as club. This is sort of a joke in my mind. A village kilabu is a one room, thatched roof hut with wood benches lining the walls and a radio playing. Usually there is some manner of livestock present. People dance in the middle of the room. Sitting on the benches people drink pombe which is home- brewed alcohol normally made of bamboo, corn, or sugarcane. It is drunk out of communal tubs.

I walk into my first kilabu (We went to four, they are run out of houses all over the village) and my villagers love it. At first, I can't believe that I am walking into a bar with a baby on my back. But believe me, I am not the only one. Every woman in there is dancing around with a baby. More kids play in one corner with a marble. I find out TZ men are just as generous as men anywhere with buying drinks, and i turn away bucket after bucket of pombe insisting that I just want to taste a bit. They are just getting a kick out of me even being there. At the kilabu, I inherit a babu and a bibi (grandparents). Mama Mary has lately been going by Mama Brie because we spend a lot of time together, even though she can't be older than 30. Her parents are at this kilabu and tell me to visit them and that they are now my grandparents- great! The more people to look after me the better and they are adorable dancing. Anna is perfect the whole time and people started calling me Mama Anna, which is only slightly embarrassing when Mjemah's around. But otherwise, I am proud to pretend to be her mother. She now knows how to blow kisses too.

I hang out with villager after villager. I try pombe, not good, not bad. Looks like dirty water and tastes like vinegar. The Mwalimu Mkuu I can tell is worried that I will get drunk off one sip and he is like a dad telling me to be careful because it is strong. It is fun and I enjoy dancing and being an authentic villager. I think I will visit the kilabu again and no, the pull is not the pombe. It was great to see the villagers is a casual social setting, enjoying their lives. The smile on their faces when I would walk in was priceless. They were so pleased I was there experiencing their lives with them. This must be what being a celebrity feels like, never unknown but people are always happy to see you. Since this would have been Academy Awards night, which has been one of my favorite nights since childhood, I enjoy being a celebrity on the "red carpet" of the kilabu.