Fighting Witchcraft in a Pine Forest

December 11, 2008

There is a new volunteer who lives very close to me. I wanted to go visit her, so I told Jen and Juster what I was doing. The tell me there is a shortcut to get to her school that makes the walk only 7k, they will take me there. I tell them just to point me in the direction but Juster is insistent that they accompany me. So I tell them I want to leave at 8 am Thursday morning, which I really have no intention of doing, but sometimes you have to lie about time to Tanzanians. I go to Juster's house at 9 am to find her drinking chai. She says, "Brie, Don't mind, but I need to bathe." This I have already predicted. I know we are going on a walk in the Southern Highlands, so I have not bathed, I put my hair in a ponytail, am in a grungy skirt and have brought water. At 9.15, Jen and Juster bathe, they wear the equivalent of Tanzanian prom dresses, they shine their high heeled sandals, they put on their best wigs and they even wear make up. I realize meeting another American is a big deal for them. So I drink chai for a hour and a half while they get ready to "Exercise". Finally, they are more decked out than when they go to church and we sent off.

The walk is exhausting as I predicted but they manage pretty well in their heels... they only have to be removed on one downhill slope. After a while one of them realizes we are lost and so they both pull out their cell phone and start babbling away to different male teachers, who are worried because they have me lost in the woods. I am not worried and more amused by my two Tanzanian best friends who are dressed up and lost in the woods. Juster is afraid I am scared though so she tells me that is someone comes to steal from me again that she and Jen will beat him and fight for me. I laugh, I can't help it, you should see how ridiculous they look, but I appreciate the back up, all the same. We decide on one direction and start going. Finally we reach some one's farm where a small girl is working. Jen asks her where this school is and she says nothing but starts to lead us. They both ask her questions, none of which she answers. Finally, they start to speak English to each other, so that the girl doesn't understand, but I do and it is hilarious.

Jen: This girl does not answer anything we say.

Juster: Yes, I do not like this. She has red eyes. She is a witch.

Jen: Yes, I have realized this.

Me: (In My Head): What? I Have not realized this! How did I miss the red eyes?

Juster: You must dismiss her. She might be trapping us. Look, there is a forest, she could kill us there.

Jen: We can dismiss her or else she will become offended and kill us anyway.

Juster: That is true. (Turns to me) Brie, quickly say a prayer to God to save us.

Me: (I have to laugh at this point and sometimes I like to mess with Juster... so I say:) How about I say a prayer to the Goddess who probably lives in one of these beautiful pine trees. (I bow my head) Dear Goddess please protect us from this small six year old child who has red eyes and wants to take us here to kill us....

Juster: Americans are really so weird. Josh believes in no God and you believe in a woman in a tree. It is not right.

Miraculously, we make it through the forest to the school and the girl doesn't kill us. Shocker.


I like Tally immediately, from her pretty smile to her talkative personality I will enjoy her company immensely. She will be teaching biology at an all girls secondary school and we have already come up with some project ideas to do together. She has only been at site for a week and in country for three months. She is coming to visit me at my site on Monday. We walk to town together to buy stuff to make dinner. A woman at one of the shops asks her a question. I glance over at Tally and she is looking at me expectantly. I think: "Who is this girl in my role? It is my job to look at another volunteer for a translation." I am shocked she is expecting me to know what is going on, but I am even more shocked that I understand what is going on. So I patiently translate and then help her to answer, but I think "Since when do I know Swahili?" After that I am surprised I know many things that she asks. I tell her tricks to start her charcoal jiko, teach her greetings in Kibena, draw her a map of PC sites in our region, teach her how to make a candle holder out of paper and a water bottle, and answer her many questions about living alone in Africa, that I asked only a few months ago. I am surprised I know any answers. Since when did I learn how to survive in Africa? How did I not notice the change? I thought I was still as helpless as ever. Furthermore she is actually impressed with what I have done here and what I know, with the fact that Juster tells me she loves me when we say good bye. And I think, "Yeah, Maybe I do have some good relationships and things going here." It is a weird feeling to be impressing anyone.

Today, I am in Njombe to sort out getting a new bank card. On Saturday, I am going to a BBQ at the Kibena Club with Zummi and Adina and then to their house to stay the night, which is about as close as you can get to a vacation here without spending any money. Looking forward to seeing them as it has been some time since I have been in Dar and they have gone to Arusha. The next time I will come through Njombe will be for X-mas, though it doesn't feel like that time of year. Next week I will plant my garden and get through another week here. As I fix my house up I wonder about all those people who said they wanted to come visit. Who will be the first person to buy a ticket? I know it is expensive for the flight, but not once you are here. If you want to come to Africa this is the time and the place. Tanzania is wonderful: Zanzibar, the Serengeti, Kilimanjaro and Me! Please try to visit.